So what can you do?

I'm sure this is the question you've all been asking yourselves... and there's an answer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5E6enHa-Qw

This is a 5 min film summarising what I got up to in Mozambique.

The beginnings of the project, as I hope you've gathered, were really successful and funding is now needed for the project to expand and fulfill its potential. The money will be used to enable the field workers I was working with to go to even more communities with the manual we wrote and the skills they now have to train more people how to maintain the pumps. I'd also like them to translate the manual into the local languages. Some of the money will also go towards building more boreholes in villages in the Diocese.

In order to try and contribute towards this progression now that I'm back in the UK I am running the Bupa 10k on the 31st May. Having not run since I left in November and being currently scared to go out into the freezing cold this is going to be a challenge! Please give me a reason to run!

If you'd like more information on the project (even after reading my blog!) then let me know. The project will benefit enormously from your support and you can be sure that the money is going directly to a very worthy cause and one which I would be happy to keep you updated on as it progresses.

Thanks are due to ALMA (London diocese’s link with the Anglican church in Angola and Mozambique www.almalink.org) and to the LDF which kindly administers the funds thus avoiding much duplication of effort. This is why the Diocese of London appears as the charity on my sponsorship page. Every penny raised however will go to the water projects in Niassa.

Donating through JustGiving is simple, fast and totally secure. Your details are safe with JustGiving – they’ll never sell them on or send unwanted emails. Once you donate, the money will go straight to the Diocese of London for forwarding to Mozambique and they make sure Gift Aid is reclaimed on every eligible donation by a UK taxpayer. So it’s the most efficient way to donate - I raise more, whilst saving time and cutting costs for the charity.

So please dig deep and donate now - www.justgiving.com/joannelambert

Goodbye Africa

I just looked up theweather for tomorrow in London...sunny yes, but a maximum temperature of 7degrees??? What does that even feel like!?

I'm currently whiling away my last day in Africa. I've been at the waterfront in CapeTown listening to a marimba band and eating lunch, bought with the last of my Rand! The last couple of weeks have been amazing. We've tried surfing (and failed!), been for beautiful coastal walks, spent a day wine tasting (we went to 4 vineyards... I was ready to stop after the first... luckily the 2nd had cheese!), cuddled a cheetah, seen wild penguins and have this week been exploring Cape Town. As EVERYBODY we've met in South Africa has warned us, we fell in love with the place, helped enormously by the huge generosity of some friends of Rebecca who live here who have had Andy and I to stay all week. They feel like family already and the week has flown by much too fast. A highlight for me was seeing the Soweto Gospel Choir perform in Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens as the sun set over the impressive table mountain behind the stage. Such an awesome atmosphere.

So, today I leave this amazing continent and the beautiful sunshine to return to cold England. I don't really feel ready to leave Africa but I'm not sure I ever would be. I am however really looking forward to catching up with a lot of people who I've missed enormously over the last 4 months. It's been an incredible experience and I'm so grateful for the oppurtunity. I'll be kept busy when I get home, catching up with not only friends and family but with EWB-UK work and starting the next phase of my adventure (life!) which is an internship with RedR, an international charity providing engineers in response to disasters all over the world. I'll be working with the water and sanitation cluster programme for 6 months in London.

I guess this is the last post on this blog... unless I return to Mozambique one day!! Thanks for reading, I hope you've learnt something new! God Bless, Joanne.

Mozambique-Lesotho-South Africa

Hi all

I just thought I'd let you know where I am, though this post does not come without some Mozambique related excitement and I therefore feel that I'm allowed to post it on a blog entitled Joanne in Mozambique. Skip to the last paragraph if you don't want to hear about my holiday exploits!

Erin, Rebecca and I spent a great week in Lesotho and the Drakensbergs doing a lot of hiking, by foot and pony, and enjoying the beautiful people and mountains. The highlight was joining a group of Lynx kit car club members with Morgan replicas to drive from Katse Dam out of Lesotho. We got a ride in one of the cars and somehow the scenery is so much easier appreciated that way rather than the smoking minibus we'd got there in!

The last week and a bit has seen Erin and I hit the coast of South Africa in our (very) little yellow Kia and we've met some very cool people and had lots of great chilled days as well as some swimming, hiking and canoeing amongst everything else! I'm finding it very interesting to learn from locals about the political situation here - so much more complex than it appears (maybe obviously) but we've been having some really interesting conversations. We're currently inland at a place called Hogsback which I love - I've discovered I'm definitely a mountain girl! Headed for a national park tomorrow for some animal spotting before meeting Andy in Port Elizabeth on Saturday :-).

This is obviously cutting lots of stories very short but no fear, you'll be fed up with them within a couple of weeks of me being home!

Now to the most important part of this post... at the end of May I'm running the Bupa 10k in London. I signed up for this before I came away when I was running every week and I'm suddenly realising that I am now very unprepared for it. BUT I have also decided to run it to raise money for the Diocese of Niassa in order to enable the work I was doing there to continue. The beginnings of the project, as I hope you've gathered from my blog, were really sucessful and funding is now needed for the project to expand and fulfill its potential. The money will be used to enable the field workers I was working with to go to even more communities with the manual I wrote and the skills they now have to train more people how to maintain the pumps. I'd also like them to translate the manual into the local languages. Some of the money will also go towards building more boreholes in willing villages in the Diocese. This is mostly by way of warning that I am therefore looking for sponsors for my run to motivate me to get training once I get home. If you're interested in sponsoring me please get in touch and email joanneinmozambique@gmail.com. I'll then let you know how to actually get the money to where it needs to be. If you'd like more information on the project (even after reading my blog!) then let me know. The project will benefit enormously from your support and you can be sure that the money is going directly to a very worthy cause and one which I would be happy to keep you updated on as it progresses. It's also great for me to be able to something useful even once I'm back in the UK.

Thank you in advance for your support and generosity and I look forward to hearing from you (I am not however looking forward to running again!!)

Moving On...

I thought I’d have lots of emotions to write eloquently, or not, about in this post, but the truth is I’m feeling quite emotionless at the moment with 1.5 days to go.

It’s been busy busy this week with 16 adeptos (field workers) here. I managed to give most of my teaching session on pumps in Portuguese and I think they understood! I was also interviewed/grilled as an example in a session on marriage and dating which I decided would be handled more delicately if I spoke English and Rebecca translated! It was an eye opening session, with so many issues coming up!

I am so in awe of the work that the Vida team have done in the Diocese. It’s been a real inspiration to me and so encouraging seeing how much is possible with a team of enthusiastic and community-centred people. The adeptos have spent the last 4 days solid filling in forms listing all the work that has been done in the last year in areas of agriculture, small animal farming, caring for orphaned children, advocacy, HIV prevention, wells, financial management and care of vulnerable people and more besides. These extraordinary people are improving hundreds of lives in Mozambique, though they don’t appear to realise it! The equipas de vida which exist to implement most of this work in the communities are volunteers giving up their free time to improve life in their village. It’s incredible and I’m not sure I’ve ever heard of any other organisation which has 4 people in the office, reaching this number of people on such a level. It’s been a real privilege to work with Rebecca over the last 3 months and gain an appreciation of her endless dedication to her work and I have so much admiration for her.

Before I arrived current work on water supply was restricted to advising communities to hand dig wells if they needed water. In the last three months we’ve run a pilot project for digging boreholes and have trained a number of communities in the maintenance of existing pumps a number of which are now working after long periods of being dry, but all this has really come to fruition in the last few weeks so it’s hard for me to leave just as the project is taking off and I’m just praying that there will be someone who will run with it and build on the foundations of the last 3 months. It would be great for example if the maintenance work could be rolled out in many more communities and with a little more experience and some decent funding, boreholes could be dug in places where they currently have no clean water supply. Wouldn’t that be awesome!?

It’s also strange for me to be leaving but not going home, and although I’m excited about doing some travelling and seeing South Africa, it does feel like I should be going home, so I feel a bit unsettled about it all. On the other hand, it will hopefully be a good opportunity to have closure on my time in Mozambique before being hit with the realities of London! There’s also the preoccupation that I don’t actually know what I’m going to do once I get home and I’m currently struggling with what I want to do vs. what’s actually available as a job and not finding much of a correlation between the two.

My vague plans for the next month and a bit involve just over a week travelling to and spending time in Lesotho with Rebecca and Erin, a week of yet unknown travelling with Erin in South Africa, a week along the south coast with Erin and Andy and then spending the last week of February in Cape Town where we’ll be joined by Emily!

I’ve learnt so much over the last few months technically, spiritually, personally and culturally and I’ve been so grateful for the experience and the support from everyone back home. So, thank you!

Pump Training at Lago Niassa

I always try to think of an original way of writing these blog entries, I try to avoid the “I did this and then I did this” style of writing, but prose has never been my forte. It’s been good for me to be forced to write and I’ve actually quite enjoyed it. Anyway, this week’s news is in the form of the highs and lows. I hope I can get everything across that I want to!

+ The boat ride was beautiful – Lago Niassa really is amazing and it was a privilege to be travelling on it.
- It wasn’t that comfortable sitting amongst 160,000 condoms destined for the same location as us.
+ Arriving in Wikihi was like arriving at the end of the world and we arrived just as the sun was setting after an 8 hour boat journey. There were hundreds of fireflies around which made me feel like I was standing amongst stars – it was stunning.

- That night there was the most terrific storm and even though we’d pitched our tents under a roof I was the only one to stay dry!
+ For the rest of the week the weather was very good to us in terms of rain, we pitched our tents 10 metres from the lake on the beach every night and lit a fire to cook over.
- No rain, but the sun was soooo hot. I struggled quite a lot with it and it sapped my energy very quickly every day, particularly when standing in the sun at the pumps.
+ Gloria and Patricio are very quick learners and I soon didn’t need much energy to run the training sessions are they were extremely competent at doing it themselves – and much more efficient because they could deliver it straight into Nyanja rather than via Portuguese. Their ability to now teach without me is sustainable practice in action – by the time I leave next week, I’ll no longer be needed :-)

+ We trained 8 different communities along the lake and built up an inventory of the pumps which exist. We managed to solve many of the problems people had simply by teaching them to carry out basic maintenance and replace worn parts and people were so keen to learn. We based the sessions on the training manual I’d produced which worked really well.
- Most people we were training couldn’t read Portuguese so for the future the manual will hopefully be able to be translated into Nyanja, the local language of people in that area.

+ We were greeted very kindly at every place we stopped. 5 year olds would plonk my heavy bags on their heads to wherever we were going and I’d be lucky if I got to carry even my water bottle! Gloria is a good cook and I never had to worry about organising food as it was all under control.
- Unfortunately the food available is not all that varied and I began to lose my appetite for Nsima or rice with beans or fish by the end of the week and found it very difficult to eat at meal times, particularly when I was tired from the days work too.
+ We had small treats along the way: some mushrooms, fizzy drinks as we got nearer to civilisation, some chocolate éclairs from Lichinga that I carried with me and spaghetti in Cobue.

It’s nice to spend some days away from electricity, gas, running water (apart from pumps!!), roads, etc but I find it pretty tiring being in the field and definitely couldn’t survive without my head torch, a book and my diary which kept me sane in my tent in the evenings! There’s definitely a balance to strike between materialism and living with nothing but the world around you. I also find myself looking forward to receiving a phone call from England or being able to access the internet, both such foreign concepts to so many people!

I’m into the last week in Lichinga, which suddenly feels like it’s come all too quickly. It’s going to be a busy week too. All of the adeptos are coming on Wednesday for a week for training and reporting so there’ll be lots to do and also lots of fun people around.

It’s great to hear from people that have read my blog just to know who I’m writing to! Thank you to everyone who’s communicated in any way over the last few months – it’s really helped and kept me going.

Vonderful VonderRig

It’s been a great few days and I’m so chuffed with the result… granted we haven’t actually pumped it in its final state yet because we don’t want to put unnecessary tensions on the cement but it looks great and I love the VonderRig!

Let me take you through the process of one way of supplying drinking water to a Mozambican village, in this case, Ngogoti.

1) Set up the VonderRig. It’s a lot of equipment to transport but the set up is surprisingly easy. I’m pretty impressed with the design. It works by setting a drill bit with a diameter of about 200mm on the end of long poles and then putting weights ie. people on the drill and rotating it. You can only dig about 50cm at a time before the drill bit fills with mud and you have to lift it all out using a metal cable and then insert the drill again. As you get deeper you have to add more and more poles so that each 50cm section can take up to 40 minutes to complete! We were lucky as we hit water at around 7m of depth (it can sometimes be like 40m!) and we dug down to about 11 eventually. We were trying to get through the gooey sloppy mud (a technical term obviously) to the more sand like stuff below as the water would be cleaner there and the ground more secure. The first picture shows the drilling in action.

2) The second picture shows the group of people from the village plus my team which was 2 “Adeptos” who work for the Diocese, Carlos, the driver who is really good at all the technical stuff – he was our expert cementer! and a technician and assistant from Mandimba who had used the equipment before. Spot the only white person. Spot the only female. O wait, same person…I’ve been challenged this week in my role as a woman and a technical worker in a country where that is so against the norm.


3) When the hole is a desirable depth, a filter must be cut into long plastic tubes where the water will enter and then the tubes lowered into the hole, as seen in picture 3. The base of the pump has also be put over the tube. Gravel is then poured between the tubes and the hole to act as a water filter and to hold the tubes in place.










4) The apron around the pump helps to keep the area clean and to stop pollutants entering the borehole. This was marked out using string and good eyesight! Bricks formed the outside and were used to fill in a hole dug around the base to secure it. This hole was filled with big chunks of gravel in cement and then the whole thing covered with much finer cement.




5) This morning was installing the actual pump – the riser pipes caused some difficulty as as you can see 11 metres of pipe is quite long and the first time we did this our joints didn’t last the stress.













6) We finished the cement job last, and locked the pump so that it can’t be used until the cement has dried and we have put chlorine into the first batch of water. I’m excited about going back and being able to pump water out where there was just ground a week ago and I think the pump looks great.

It’s been a really fun week and I’ve learnt LOADS! I’m also a lot more confident with the Portuguese now and I felt ok leading the team which is such a blessing. I should really be in bed now as I leave tomorrow morning for a couple of weeks to run these pump maintenance training days along the lake shore. I’ll leave you with a cute picture I took whilst helping a team of people peel and pound maize whilst I wasn’t needed at the VonderRig. I got chatting to them all and a couple of days later they invited me to their house and gave me maize to take back to England to show people as I told them we didn’t grow it and that we didn’t eat Nsmina! I didn’t have the heart to tell them that that would be impossible on so many levels so I gratefully accepted the gift!


I tried to explain snow to the guys I was working with this week…”It’s snowing in England.” “I don’t know ‘snow’.” “It’s rain but cold.” “you mean ice”, “no, snow, it’s like rain, only white and very cold.” “yes, ice.” “no, ice is hard, snow is soft. It covers everything with white and you can build men.” (my Portuguese probably confused things at that point!). Luckily Carlos came to my rescue: “ah I have seen it in films and people have big cars and they have to go and take the snow away so that people can drive. Everything turns white.” “yes, exactly, well that’s what they have in England right now.” They didn’t seem as excited as I was! Thinking of you all!

Amanhã

Amanhã (Portuguese) = tomorrow

This is when things seem to be happening at the moment but hopefully amanhã things are actually going to get going. Tomorrow I should finally be starting to drill a borehole in a community called Ngogoti about an hour from here. I will stay there for 3 nights and the dream is that we’ll be drinking the water on Thursday. Realistically, I’ll probably have to continue the project when I’m back from the lake.

Here are just a few of the reasons that the project has been delayed…

We’re borrowing a Vonder Rig (hand auger: easier than hand digging a well, not as easy as machine drilling one but a LOT cheaper) from Estamos (a local NGO) but the pieces were in a place called Mandimba. No problem, we have to drive through there on the way to Malawi which we did a couple of weeks ago, so we stopped and asked to collect it on our way back through – “sure!” On our way back, the boss decided then wasn’t actually such a good time but once back in Lichinga, Rebecca used her contacts to make sure it was brought the next day in a car coming this way. Meanwhile, we had been trying to get hold of a technician, also from Mandimba, to work with us the first time we used the equipment but he had no phone. We eventually got hold of him, basically by phoning various neighbours, and he agreed to come last Sunday. He didn’t turn up. He arrived late Monday night due to apparent problems with chapas (minibuses). Tuesday morning we went to collect the drill but discovered that lots of pieces were missing, and were back in Mandimba. We send Elias (the technician) back again. He was due to return again on Friday and we mobilised the community ready to start working on Saturday morning. He didn’t arrive – turns out the boss at Estamos was in Malawi and so couldn’t authorise the parts. We phoned the boss’s brother (luckily a friend of Rebecca’s!) and the boss later returned to Mandimba and the parts were released. Then Elias couldn’t find a chapa to bring them on. This morning therefore we sent a Diocesean car to pick him and the pieces up and bring them back. On the way they got a flat tyre, but that’s no big deal and they eventually arrived with the Vonder Rig this afternoon. BUT in collating the pieces here with the ones they brought we discovered there was still one piece missing. In the mean time, we visited Ngogoti on Saturday so that we wouldn’t have to change the plans with them AGAIN. It was actually a good meeting. We did some community mapping and spoke with the chief and the Equipa de Vida there to establish the best location for the pump. We took a tape measure and had an amusing time demonstrating what 30metres looked like as ideally a borehole has a 30m space around it with no buildings and particularly no latrines (see pic). We might manage 15m if we’re lucky. So, this missing piece, having told them we’ll start at 7am tomorrow, needs to be welded and we can’t do that till the welding people actually start work at 8am! Finally, we’ve ordered some small Afridev pieces, predominantly for my work at the lake next week, from Nampula but a couple are needed for this project, and they should’ve arrived on the plan over a week ago. Turns out there had been a problem with the bank transfer – it was registered on the computer but no money had turned up – or something – who knows! It’s all the more frustrating because communication is so difficult that it’s hard to re organise things and the community are ready to start work and are really excited and motivated about the project.

So, that’s where I am for the next week, then it’s a quick turn around and I’m off to the lake and up to Wikihi on the Tanzanian border to start the Afridev maintenance workshops. A test of my Portuguese and training abilities. The manual is almost finished.

In other news Peg, Rebecca and I went for a lovely walk on New Years Day (see pic) and we caught 4 mice in the last week! We had no electricity for most of last week which got pretty annoying – when you expect to have it it’s so much worse that when you’re in the field and know there isn’t any! O, and I have a flight booked to come home. I land on 2nd March.

I spent a lot of time reflecting on New Years Eve. It was a beautiful moonlit night and I sat outside between 10pm and midnight listening to drumming in the village. 2009 was an amazing year for me with lots of milestones. I also realised how many amazing people I’ve met in the last year or got to know better, so thanks!

Happy New Year x

Merry Christmas (or Emmanuel - God With Us)

As expected I suppose, this week has been hard for me in terms of missing home. I’m sad to be missing group meet ups, both friends and family. I’m going to miss waking up tomorrow to scrambled egg and smoked salmon with a glass of BucksFizz. I’m going to miss spending time with Mum, Dad and Louise. I’m going to miss watching Friends with Lou after M+D have fallen asleep post Christmas dinner! I will be thinking more than ever this year of people who have no choice in being away from their families.

Christmas has not been evident at all here. There hasn't really been anything to hint that Christmas is coming and it was a bit of a shock when we travelled through Blantyre last week and the supermarket was full of tinsel and funked up Christmas songs! Ellie sent me a lovely advent calendar with stained glass windows and that’s currently our token Christmas decoration! I was going to post this this morning but the electricity was off and then the internet stopped working all day so in the mean time I've been to the market and we found some decorations for sale so there is a little sign of Christmas after all - see pic (and note that the banner says Happy Birthday!) The picture of me is the paper christmas tree I made this morning with the presents mum gave me to bring out "underneath" it and a couple of pressies between Rebecca and I.

We’ve been listening to Christmas songs and carols this morning. Have you ever listened properly to the words of BandAid’s song: “There won’t be snow in Africa this Christmas”? Well, that’s true but the whole continent is not “a world of dread and fear, where the only water flowing is the bitter sting of tears.” I suppose we can forgive Bob Geldof for the slightly extreme lyrics given their time of writing during the 1984 famine in Ethiopa. Unfortunately things haven’t changed much and there are many problems with drought and famine particularly in East Africa this year, but if we’re going to focus on the sad state of the world at Christmas I prefer the lyrics to Delirious?’ song which instead of telling us to “thank God it’s them instead of you” they sing “Forgive us all, forgive us please, As we fight for this broken world on our knees.” It’s not a Christmas song but it speaks more to me about the true meaning of Christmas in the “freedom we have …in a man nailed to a tree”. It’s definitely easier in Lichinga to imagine the night that Jesus was born on, with everything carrying on as normal around the stable and most of the world oblivious to what was happening. It’s also a good time for me to reflect on one of the things that drives me to be here in the first place. When Jesus was on the earth he spent the majority of His time with the poor, eating with them, helping them and loving them and the bible talks about being parts of Christ’s body on earth today (1Cor12). For me, personally, my faith is not just about praying for the poor, it’s about trying to do the very small amount I can do, about it.

"Then the righteous will answer him, 'Lord, when did we see you hungry and feed you, or thirsty and give you something to drink? When did we see you a stranger and invite you in, or needing clothes and clothe you? When did we see you sick or in prison and go to visit you?'
"The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'
(Matthew 25: 34-40)

Anyway, back to the original sentiment of this post. I hope that you all have a blessed and restful Christmas with friends and family. Eat lots and sing lots and as one version of We Wish You a Merry Christmas goes:

“Be near or be far, wherever you are, We wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!”

The flood plains of Zambezia

Wow where to start? It’s been an adventurous week in the province of Zambezia.

The work (Picture: Rebecca, Florinda and Evo talk to an Equipa de Vida in Chire about HIV)
I spent most of the week listening and learning. We went to the area to talk to people who are affected by the flooding of the Shire river and its tributaries and to find out whether there was anything we could do. It’s a really sad situation. The poorest people live on the flood plains and farm there, their only access to food being what they grow. We met families who have lost their farms already this year to the water and they have no other income. For the first time I was face to face with real hunger and desperate poverty and it was hard to walk away. The government have provided new huts with facilities such as water supply and schools in the dryer part of the area to encourage people to move out of their flood prone houses. This seems to have worked although we’re still unclear on the details and whether people really can move for free. This doesn’t solve the farming problem however. It also appears that the flooding has been getting worse over the last couple of years, an interesting week then to be doing this work alongside the negotiations at Copenhagen. (For those that are interested, the work I did on vulnerability of the least developed countries to climate change is now available online as a PDF publication here.) Although a desperately poor area, people were always very kind to us and we slept each night in our tent either within a straw church or in the chief’s grounds. They were also very generous with food and we ate well. We visited the flood plains and came across a kind of canoe city where people trade food from the other side of the river, it was a fascinating place. The whole area was also very flat and so also scenically quite different from other places I’ve seen.

So what can we do about this? One of the things that people have problems with is getting seeds to grow well on drier land so Rebecca is going to organise for some of the team to do some training there in agricultural methods. It’s funny… I’d always assumed that people who have lived off the land for years couldn’t be taught by a westerner how to grow crops but it really does seem that there are better techniques out there that people just aren’t aware of to maximise their harvest. There’s a possibility that one of the communities could extend a wall which was built by the Portuguese to keep the water back. Other than that it’s a case of continuing to show support and encouragement to those who choose to move to drier lands to the government provided houses and to try to understand the cases where people haven’t moved. Is it that they can’t or that they have chosen not to? Is the choice well-informed?

The Portuguese (Picture: A building from the colonial era)
In many of the areas we were working last week there are huge ruined buildings which were built by the Portuguese who dreamt of these remote rural areas becoming big centres. It’s such a stark contrast between these and the tiny huts which surround them. The Portuguese also linked these two places. We wanted to travel from a place called Megaza to Chire and there was a road on a map we had that none of the locals we were working with knew about. We asked around and it sounded like it was passable so we set off in the landcruiser as the route seemed very direct.

Direct it might have been but it took hours. If there ever was a road there it was a very long time ago. At times we found ourselves driving through bush land dodging trees and driving over 6ft plants as we went basically just following a compass (which there happened to be one of on the lid of Rebecca’s mosquito repellent!) It was the craziest driving I’ve ever seen. We passed through so many different terrains, came across a random shop in the middle of absolutely nowhere, saw plains with trees with no branches or leaves, met children who’d never seen a car, men who were dubious about our chances of making it through to Shire and we also got stuck. The “mud” we got stuck in was more like thick clay. You could mould with it and it stuck everywhere. We were about 70cm deep in it and it took 2 hours, help from 3 locals (as well as the 6 of us in the car), many branches and leaves, and everybody getting very muddy before we got out. We were still finding hardened clay under the car days later despite a thorough wash! We did eventually make it to Shire, a huge well built bridge appeared out of nowhere just before we got there, proving that there did used to be a road, or at least a dream of one at some point!

Whilst speaking of the Portuguese, my language is coming on… I can understand a lot of what’s going on and my vocabulary isn’t bad (although involves an unusual collection of words: firewood, pump rod, crocodile… you get the idea) but I need to practice speaking more than I do because it takes me a long time to form sentences. Slowly but surely!

Some treats (Picture: the canoes used for transporting food in Megaza)
We spent a couple of nights in Blantyre, Malawi on the journey and had some amazing meals out: 2 pizzas, a Chinese and an Indian. It was such a treat for the tastebuds! We also managed to get a tour of a tea factory in Mulanje which was fascinating (health and safety would’ve never allowed it in England). We did a lot of shopping in Blantyre for people back here: medicines, books, plastic sheeting, nice peanut butter, and coloured card!

Rebecca and I also spent a great night at a trout farm on Zomba plateau (also in Malawi) and where I’d spent my last night in Africa two and a half years ago. We had a lovely 3 hour walk the next morning before heading back home.

It’s been really really hot, and there’s a real lack of rain for the time of year. People are losing crops which they planted when the rains first seemed to start. It’s hard for me to imagine the snow in England (although I did get shown my back garden via Skype this morning!) as I’m sure it’s hard for you to imagine what things are like here! I hope you are all well and it’s lovely to be hearing from you via email or Skype.

What I'm munching!

Picture to prove I'm alive and well (and vagually food related!)

This is *almost* a work free entry. I don’t really know who’s reading this and therefore what you want to know about. So here’s one about food for the chefs of my fans! If you read it you also get to find out when I’m coming home!

I have encountered lots of new fruit and veg and new combinations of known foods since I’ve arrived and I’ve really been enjoying cooking.

So, in the manner of the game…. We went shopping in Lichinga market on Saturday and we bought:

• A 10 litre paint can of onions – these all make me weep A LOT! I have no idea why they’re so much worse than onions from Sainsbury’s!
• Okra – a new vegetable for me – but I like it!
• Chillies – I’m impressed – they’re so hot that we won’t even get through one in a week. We put some on the roof this morning to see if we can dry them!
• Garlic – pre peeled – the cloves are so small that they’re a real pain to peel so most market vendors sell them pre peeled.
• Carrots, Cabbage, lettuce and tomatoes
• Strawberries – this was very exciting – we perhaps got a bit too excited and bought too many because they’re all going squishy and we’ve still got loads left! They’re very yum though. I feel like I need to be on the backs of Cambridge with Pimms!
• Green beans
• Eggplant (Aubergine!) – lots of it!
• Zucchini (Courgette – I’m living with an American!) – we didn’t actually buy this, we were given it by some friends with a farm.
• Some amazing green peppers which actually look like Sainsbury’s ones! The ones you usually get are very thin and small.
• Summer squash (we also got given this!) – it’s yellow and more like courgette than butternut squash – good though.
• We have lots of mangoes stored up from our trip to the lake
• Guava
• Papaya
• A weird fruit that is called “Coração de boi” in Portuguese. Translates as cow’s heart but we think it’s maybe a custard apple in English, though it’s nothing like an apple!!? I haven’t tried it yet!
• Bananas
• Eggs

So, lots of fruit and veg.

In terms of protein I’m eating lots of peanuts and peanut butter. Rebecca made houmous which was yummy. Otherwise tuna or beans. Today as a special treat we defrosted some cheese Rebecca bought in South Africa! I’m enjoying natural yogurt too.

We had a lovely weekend including a film night with a couple of girls working with Iris Ministries with popcorn and “peanut butter candies” made by yours truly! We had dinner out at MGK in Nomba on Sunday after church which was lovely. On Friday we’re leaving for Morumbala which Rebecca says she thinks is the poorest area of Mozambique. We’re visiting communities along the River Shire which get flooded every year. We’re not sure what the situation is yet and whether the solution will be social or technical but this week involves some prep for that and more pump stuff!

Also, I’m waiting to hear back from the airline but I will probably be back in the UK at the end of February (27th ish). We’re delaying our Christmas break and are thinking of spending a week or so in Lesotho at the beginning of Feb and then I’m going to take the opportunity to have a wander round South Africa.

:-)

ps. Erin has described our trip up the lake last week slightly more eloquently here if you're interested!

A week at the lake

Today is World Aids Day. I spent this morning at an event in Lichinga which was attended by anyone who has involvement with an HIV/AIDS program in the city. I was there with the Lichinga based Equipas deVida and we paraded through town with our bright orange tshirts which read on the front: Embaixador de Christo! or Ambassador of Christ! And on the back (in Portuguese): In Christ there is no difference between positive and negative. Equipa de Vida. Anglican church.

Peg is a British doctor who lives in Cobue, a village 4.5hours drive north of Lichinga on the lake shore. Rebecca and Peg spent the last week with people who had travelled from all over the lake shore to learn how to carry out tests for HIV and most importantly, how to council those they give results to. These are the first peple who have been allowed to carry out tests in this way: people usually have to travel to the nearest government centre which could be days away! We arrived in Cobue last Tuesday afternoon and I was pretty excited to be back somewhere I recognized, to be met by people that remembered me and to see the kids we’d played with 2 years ago, now a LOT bigger than they were!

Erin is an Australian who is working with some missionaries just out of Lichinga who run an organic self sustaining farm which they hope to use as an example of different farming methods which local people can copy. She fancied a trip to the lake and so worked and travelled with me all week. It was amazing to have somebody to think aloud to when we were working and also to chill out with in our time off. We spent the first two full days travelling in and around Cobue, with Carlos our driver determined that 2 ft wide paths were definitely fit for the car! We visited about 10 Afridev pumps which had been reported broken and with 2 Mozambicans who work for the Diocese and Carlos, would follow a similar pattern with each. We would first meet the chief of the area and if possible somebody who had been the “pump committee”. It turned out the pump committee usually consisted of one person. We would establish that no, they hadn’t had any training, and were not in possession of any spare parts (which we were told they would be) and would then work with them to assess the condition of the pump. We would then take the pump apart and replace any broken parts where we had them. We managed to completely fix 3 or 4 which was really satisfying, particularly as my team learnt very quickly and by the end I was confident that they could do 90% of the work without me. A couple of the pumps have been left broken for so long that I believe they had clogged up and would need the whole riser pipe removed which is a big job that we couldn’t do there and then. A couple had just never been dug deep enough to begin with (they were built into the rainy season when water levels were higher) and so there was no water in the wells in the driest months of the year. It was a successful couple of days overall in terms of training, scoping out what the situation is with the pumps, knowing a bit more about the most common problems and encouraging communities that we are beginning to look at this problem more. The next stage of this project may involve me in a boat travelling up the lake right up to the Tanzanian border, stopping for a day at a time along the way and training communities in basic maintenance and repair. I’m about to start writing a manual.

Eren and I spent the next 3 days travelling to and from, and working in, a village called Lumbaulo which is about half way between Cobue and the Tanzanian border. Getting there involved about 5 hours of cycling and a few hours of walking. The heat and sun intensity along the lake made the journey very difficult for me but the scenery was absolutely stunning and travelling through countless villages and seeing Mozambican countryside made it all worth it. Lumbaulo itself was amazing. We slept outside at the health post there as it was too hot to be indoors. We spent the second day at a river which we discovered in the rainy season reaches a width of 124 ft and a depth of 12ft! Currently people have to swim across and last year 6 people from the village were attacked by crocodiles, including one man who accompanied us who had lost an arm. The idea is to propose to the government that a bridge is necessary there. My job was to take lots of pictures and measurements and find out the situation from the community so that I can write a sort of proposal which can be given to the government. My initial thoughts are that it would have to be some sort of suspension bridge (particularly as we spied some pretty good rocks on the banks) but any suggestions appreciated.

The journey back was quicker as we left at 5am to get the walking done whilst it was as cool as possible but was still very hot. I have pretty burnt knuckles and wrists from cycling! Back in Cobue we made the most of Peg’s house being 10 metres from the lake and chilled out. It is mango season here at the moment and last week I was on about 6 a day! Every time we needed a break on our journey we’d just grab a few mangoes – ideal!

There are sad sides to all of this. Obviously the amazing work that Peg does is only needed because people get very sick. There were a couple of very malnourished babies in Cobue this week. Where pumps don’t work people are drinking lower quality water or walking miles to the nearest water source. I am continually learning more about the culture and life of people here as well as about myself. I am really loving the work that I’m doing and feel really comfortable here. I have been learning particularly this week about thanksgiving (coinciding nicely with thanksgiving on Thursday!) and giving thanks in all circumstances. It’s amazing even in the toughest times how much there is to be thankful for from health to suncream to mangoes to bikes and plenty more besides!

Wow, sorry for the length of this. Happy Advent to everyone and I hope you are all well. I look forward to hearing your news. I think of you all often.

Picture 1: Children in Cobue appreciate the mended pump (there is a pump in there somewhere!!)
Picture 2: A view near Lumbaulo.
Picture 3: Part of our journey from Lumbaulo to Cobue.

Census results

Please read the post I wrote last night but I've just seen the results of the census that was actually being taken whilst we were here 2 years ago and I thought it was something to be shared.

In terms of water and sanitation:

Progress in bringing running water to people's homes has been much slower than electrification. In 1997, 8.5 per cent of houses had piped water, inside or outside the house. By 2007, that figure had risen to 10.1 per cent.

10.3 per cent of the population drew their water from public standpipes, and 14.1 per cent had access to a protected well or borehole with a pump. But most of the population still obtain their water from unprotected sources. 46.9 per cent use traditional wells without any hand pumps, and 17.3 per cent simply take their water from a river or lake.

The majority of homes - 54.3 per cent - have no sanitation at all, not even a simple pit latrine. This is actually a substantial improvement on 1997, when 66 per cent of homes had no latrine.

Other interesting things include the life expectancy which is around 50 and the fact that 47% of the population are under the age of 15.

When you take into account that the Diocese of Niassa covers the poorer end of the country, you start to get an idea of the situations we're working in and the challenges that exist. Summaries of the census can be found at allafrica.com. (Work and poverty, Definitive results, Birth, death and fertility)

A day in the life...

I had a fun weekend with a walk out to visit some of the Iris missionaries on Saturday and then church and a chilled afternoon yesterday. I thought it might help you understand where I am and what I'm doing a bit more if I told you in a bit more detail about one day... and that is today. Monday. I don't really have a typical day as such but this is probably fairly standard for a day in Lichinga.



6:15 Alarm goes off although I'd been awake for a while because the crows were having a party on the roof (metal roof = amplified noise!). I woke up to find I'd fallen asleep reading last night (wasting a lot of battery in my head torch!). I'm reading "The secret room" which is about Corrie Ten Boom. It's really good.

6:30 Electricity is working but unfortunately our kettle isn't. I fill a bucket with some hot water from the 2 ring gas stove and then water from the tap and have a "shower". Breakfast is a bread roll with peanut butter.

7:00 I continue to translate/ work out a table for identifying the cause of problems with Afridev hand pumps. Tomorrow I'm going up to the lake shore and will be looking at 5 or 6 pumps which aren't working but obviously it's no good them needing someone like me to always fix them. I found a good diagnosis table in a manual on the internet in English so Rebecca translated most of it but we've been struggling with technical terms. "rising main pipe", "cup seal", "pump rods" etc!

7:30 The little girl who lives opposite knocked on the door just to give me a good morning hug!

8:00 Rebecca goes to morning prayer (which happens every Mon and Friday here at KuchiJingi, the Diocean site). I am supposed to go to Estamos with Mario but there's a delay finding a car. Estamos are a local company who were set up to work with WaterAid. They still do a lot of water and sanitation work but also do some public health stuff too. Very useful contacts.

8:45 We finally leave and speak to someone at Estamos who told us on Thursday that today would be a good day to go and see one of the Afridev pumps that they've put in so that we can take it apart a bit. Turns out they're all pretty busy and we go with a lady who doesn't really know anything about pumps. It also turns out that they hadn't warned anyone we were coming so when we arrive at the village the chief is not around and neither is the person who has the keys to the pump and well. This also happened at the second village.

9:30 After learning how NOT to go about working with communities we arrive back at Estamos and learn that there is someone going to Chimbonila to do some work with latrines but that he could first look at a pump that there's a problem with. Chimbonila was where I was for a few days last week and it was nice to go this time in a car and not by chapas (public transport).

10:30 We arrived at Chimbonila and I finally got a chance to consolidate everything I'd read about the Afridev pumps and see how to dismantle one and what the most likely problems were. I also learnt the Portuguese names for the parts and my pump chat is now a lot more sophisticated than my everyday chat about the weather etc! O well! I left Chimbonila feeling nicely confident about the work this week.

12.30 We arrived back at the office and did some more on the diagnosis table.

1:30 Lunch at Marios. Rebecca and I go there every day for lunch and it's always great. Today was rice with a sort of bean and vegetable tomatoey thing! It was good! His two kids are very sweet and the eldest, Shirley, who's just 3, has just begun to trust me and so she came to give me a hug and have a chat! Sammy, who's 1 I think, still isn't sure what to make of me!

2:15 Back at the office and I do some more reading of the pump manual and read about how to work out what type of soil you're working with! I also went and checked the warehouse at Kuchijingi to see if we had the tools that you need to take Afridev pumps apart. The warehouse was a bit of a mess so we left the man in charge of it to sort it out a bit but we never found anything useful.

3:00 We have a call from Estamos to say we can borrow their tools for the week so Mario and I drove down to pick them up. We then went to a hardware store that Rebecca and I had discovered sold spare parts for the pumps and picked up some of the pieces that are most likely to break to take with us. The communities should have been given spare parts and in the interest of ownership will have to pay to replace parts. It's a bit of a difficult and unknown situation with the pumps that we're visiting. The follow up and recording of the installations and training was not really done at all so we're not sure how much the communities know about how to maintain the pumps or whether they will have the tools and manuals that are supposed to be left with anyone who has one built. Highlights a lot of interesting thoughts about the way development is done.

4:30 Back at the office. I scanned one of the simple Portuguese manuals that the communities should have and which Estamos had lent us so I can take copies with us tomorrow. I also scanned useful pages from my textbooks so that I don't have to take them with me.

5:30 We lock up and head home (about a 1 minute walk). The photo in this blog is Rebecca's house. I scan the Africa guidebook for ideas for a Christmas trip whilst Rebecca skpes home and then I start cooking. I fried up some potatoes, with onion and garlic then added a load of shredded cabbage and grated carrot and some herbs. We had that with some beans. I've been experimenting quite a lot with cooking but this was a sucessful experiment - it was yummy!



That pretty much brings me to sitting down and writing this. I will now go and pack for the next week (and Rebecca has just reminded me not to forget my swimming costume because bathing for the next week is in Lake Niassa!) and then go to bed. It's been really hot today and I'm exhausted. I won't be in touch for the next week but will still have my phone. Very sad to be missing Andy's birthday this week, and Rebecca who's American, is sad that her family are all together for thanksgiving. Technology is amazing though and it's great to be in touch as much as I am.

I arrived!

Hi!!

I've just managed to get on the internet for the first time since I left home last Monday and it's great to feel like I am still on the same planet!

The journey here was LONG! I arrived in Lichinga at about 8pm on Wednesday after 3 days of travelling. The last day was particularly exciting with 2 minibuses (one of which stopped for a while whilst the driver got done for speeding), 2 cycle "taxis" (which are interesting to balance on with 20kg on your back!), 1 pick up which ran out of diesel 4 times on the way and one hitched lift in a car (which also ran out of diesel!). I did wonder why I didn't fly to Lichinga (it was because of cost) but then it was an adventure. As Ed's mum put it so well: an adventure is an inconvenienve rightly construed! When I arrived there was no internet, phone line, mobile signal or uber fast pidgeons which made letting people know I'd arrived safely a little difficult! I stayed with the Bishop of Niassa (Mark, and his wife, Helen) as Rebecca was away in Zambia. The view from their house is stunning. You can see right across to Lake Niassa and the sunset every day is beautiful. On Friday I visited a village fairly nearby to see a hand dug well they had built to get a taste of what kind of things are going on in the Diocese.

I spent the weekend at the lake shore for the Diocesean Family Day at the cathedral. It was completely mad but also great! The morning service on Sunday lasted 5 hours(!!!) and on Sunday Mark baptised 52 babies as well as dedicating a chapel. There were also lots of choirs there from around the Diocese and the singing was incredible and so loud! Just amazing! It was also VERY hot, in fact it's been pretty hot all of the last week really with some impressive storms in the afternoons. Today's a bit miserable though!!

The last 3 days I've been at another village observing an agriculture training workshop where Michael (a Mozambican) was teaching an Equipa de Vida (see the last post!) how to use land productively and how to make compost. It was a tiring few days for me, particularly trying to listen to Portuguese all the time (which is improving already, slowly!). I'm also trying to get used to the food again (the first day in the village I had Nsima and usipa for lunch and rice and beans for dinner - the Cobue song was stuck in my head girlies!).

I'm now back in Lichinga and now that Rebecca is back I'm also in the house I will be living in for the rest of my time here which is lovely despite Rebecca's welcome note which listed the things which didn't work!) I think I will really feel at home here. The internet is also now working AND I have a Mozambique sim card so I feel a bit more contactable. I also have a bike so can get myself around! Thanks very much to everyone who's text or emailed. It's made my first week a lot easier as I try to settle in. I'm really looking forward to starting work and feeling more useful (I hope that happens).

I do have a postal address here and things can take 10 days to 2 months to arrive but apparently letters are usually fine if you feel so inclined! Drop me an email if you want it because I don't really want to post it on the internet. Also, my skype address is joanne_lambert.

Right I'm off to the office now but glad to have got in touch. Not a very exciting post this one!
Jo

What I'm doing

In 2007, through a contact at ALMA (Angola London Mozambique Association), I visited a village called Cobue on the lakeshore of Mozambique just across from Malawi. I stayed there for 3 weeks shadowing the village’s “Equipa de Vida” (Teams of Life). The Diocese of Niassa had set up these teams, comprised of local people, in all the villages in the Diocese, which covers the entire Northern region of Mozambique. The teams were made up of volunteers from the villages who were given training particularly on HIV/AIDS awareness and drug administration and they cared for ill people in the villages. In Cobue they also maintained a garden, where the food grown was given to the sick and elderly. While we were there we taught English to some of the team and some of the older children and we also organized games for the orphans in the village every morning. In the afternoons we would then work with the Equipa, building latrines, gathering firewood, working in the garden and mending mosquito nets. We then also briefly visited the town of Lichinga where the Diocese is based.

Since my visit 2 years ago the number of Equipas de Vida has grown to 195 (some very strong, some quite weak, a lot that are average). These Equipas de Vida (with nearly 4000 volunteers—themselves quite poor, generally) began in response to HIV and with the motto that in the face of HIV, there still is LIFE. Those who are living with HIV can make decisions that affirm life and their lives can also be supported by their neighbours. Those who are not living with HIV can make decisions and take action to stay HIV-negative. The Diocese believes that there is a growing culture of LIFE and that a momentum is building towards HIV prevention and support of those living with HIV.

The diocese have decided in the last two years that it doesn’t really work to talk about HIV in isolation from other community/social issues as they’re so interconnected at the community level. They are also working hard to ensure that both the church leaders AND the community leaders (teachers, chiefs, nurses) are very involved in their work. They believe that it should be the COMMUNITY who decides what their priorities should be, and not the diocesan staff. This is crucial for ownership and for appropriateness. They have therefore become actively involved in coordinating, in each community, a community mobilization participatory needs assessment. One of the staff members works with a community (chiefs, teachers, church leaders, Equipa de Vida members, people living with HIV) for two days, helping them identify their resources and their priority issues and then helping them make an action plan. If they have the capacity to help them achieve their plan, they’ll do this.

They’ve done these community mobilization activities for about 150 communities, and about 30 of them have mentioned lack of water as their biggest problem. My role while I am in Mozambique will be to help the Diocese of Niassa and the communities figure out how to respond to these needs. In some cases the problem is because of a broken well or pump. In other cases people have been lazy and just not dug a well. In other cases, the ground is too rocky. Whatever the situation, the Diocesan technical team sees it not as their problem to solve (that is not a very sustainable solution). Our job is to help the community realize what it is they can do to solve their own problem.

So that's what I'll be doing. I'm flying out on the 9th November and will hopefully arrive in Lichinga by the end of the 11th. My friend Ed's parents have very kindly said they'll put me up in Blantyre, Malawi on my way out which is making me a lot less nervous about the journey. I have a lot to do before then though for example, order some books about water supply!